Samsung ML-1666 Toner Resetter

This is to reset the toner used in Samsung ML-1666 laser printer. Based on PIC-16F73. This chip is available in Bangladesh and cheap. I bought few at taka 90 each, probably last month. So it would cost you maximum tk 200 to 250 to build one. And also easy to make. Bellow you would find the DesignSpark schematic and firmware.


* The crystal used is 8 MHz.

* Connector PL1 having:

1. VCC

2. Data

3. Clk

4. Gnd

would go to the toner’s terminal. You will find label on the toner.

* Connector PL2 having

1. Rx

2. Gnd

is optional and you may skip this. This was used to debug and it has no other use.

* Connector PL3 having:

1. VDD

2. GND

is the 5 volt power source. You can use battery or DC adapter. I have built it on stripboard and used an old mobile phone charger. Note that new mobile phone chargers having mobile detecting IC to auto turn off may not work. I found problem with mobile phone’s charger. Using a normal adapter now.

When you power the device Led1 will be on. When the switch ‘SW1’ is pressed, it will try to check if the toner eeprom is readbale. If it is readbale, Led2 will be on and it goes to the write process. Finally if it is successful to write, Led3 will be on for a moment, then it goes to that start state again. Which is Led1 is on. At this time you may disconnect the toner and put another to reset (if any).

That’s all for now. Take care.

Note: There was an error in the previous schematic. 3 Leds were connected to pins 22, 23, 24. These 3 leds should be connected to pins 24, 25, 26. Schematic has been corrected now. Sorry for the error.

Download firmware and schematic.

Latest Update: Firmware & schematic bugfix “”:


Warning: This resetter may damage your toner cartridge.


180 thoughts on “Samsung ML-1666 Toner Resetter

  1. Bhaia ami system ta bujlam na.Amake system ta aro ekto shahoj kore bolben?Amar khub proyojon.
    Jadi paren amake Apnar Mobile Number ta mail kore diben.
    Pleas help ME.

  2. Thank you Tohid bhai.

    When you print a page on Samsung ML-1666, the printer counts it and writes it in the eeprom/memory chip of the toner. When it reaches to a certain number, say 1000 or 1500 pages, the printer would stop printing. The user is supposed to replace the toner. If you open the toner and insert/refill toner-ink, it will not work. Because, the printer will read the memory ic and see that it has reached it’s limit.

    So, if you ‘erase’ (set the counter to zero) the memory ic, the printer would think that it is a new toner. You should also change the serial number of the toner so that it is accepted as a new toner. This serial number is also written in the memory chip.

    This circuit is to do the above. If you are not understanding any part of it, please let me know, so that I can try to get it.

    It uses a microcontroller, which is available in Bangladesh. You have to download the firmware and program it with a programmer. In Dhaka you may get this microcontroller at Patuatuli, in Chittagong you would get it at “Famous Electronics, Ice Factory Road, Sadarghat”. If you are new to microcontroller, here you may face some problem. Anyway, let me know exactly where you are unclear about it.


    1. Tohid bhai I use telephone very little, so let’s not go for this, my apology…

      I understand that you are new to microcontroller and confused. If you are only interested for this toner resetter, let me know your address. I will send you (by courier SA Paribahan) a microcontroller programmed Inshallah. Then get other parts and assemble/solder. You don’t have to pay me for the microcontroller. Since you are a poet, let me have the opportunity to serve a poet 🙂 (visited your web site and saw your works on the web. Very nice.)

      But if you are interested to get in microcontroller programming, you have to get a programmer. In Bangladesh you will get universal programmer which would cost you tk. 6,000 – 12,000. These are not very good, brand like “Top” is mostly available which has many complains. So, don’t go for these. Rather, make a simple programmer by yourself, like ‘JDM programmer’, will cost you maximum tk 200 including a serial cable. This programmer works on serial port. New computers don’t have serial port. So, you need an old computer having 9 pin serial port, like this:


      Note that usb to serial adapter will not work.

      Later you can make an USB pic programmer, like pickit2 clone. Anyway, I think telling you about these right now will make you more confused. Decide what you want to do and start by the name of Allah. Don’t worry.


  3. Dear,
    Prithwijit From India, Thkz for Ur though/idea, will definitely try it, But One thing U have Mentioned LED 1, But in Ur Diagram, No Where LED1 has been marked, Where it is to be placed. According to my though It may be placed in between GRND and Left Hnad Tap of SW1 (I may be wrong also). Pleace reply me back …

    WIth Best Regards
    Prithwijit De

    Keep on Rocking.

  4. Dear Prithwijit,
    Yes, the Led1 is located over the SW1. I understand that it is difficult to find it, but don’t know any better way to get the DesignSpark schematic to image. Proper way is to open it with DesignSpark itself. May be this image can help you:

    Thank you and best regards.

  5. আমার রিসেটারটি খুব দরকার।আপনি আমাকে এস.এ.পিরবহন বেপারীপাড়া,আগ্রাবাদ,চট্টগ্রাম শাখায় পাঠালে আমি অফিস থেকে সংগ্রহ করে নেব। আমার মোবাইল নং: +৮৮০১৫৫৪৩৩৪১৭০ সাথে যদি কিভাবে ব্যবহার করতে হবে তা বিস্তারিত জানান তবে চির কৃতজ্ঞ থাকবো।
    আশা করি দ্রুত আপনার সহযোগিতা পাবো।

  6. তৌহীদ ভাই, আমি পাঁচ ছয়দিনের মধ্যে এটা আপনাকে পাঠিয়ে দেব ইনশাল্লাহ। আমি পুরোটাই তৈরী করে পাঠাবো, আপনি একটি এডাপটার দিয়ে কানেক্ট করে নিতে পারবেন।

    1. অনেক ধন্যবাদ । আমি আপনার সহযোগিতার জন্য অনেক কৃতজ্ঞ থাকবো।

  7. Rabiul bhai
    thanks for the solution but the microcontoller is a bit too tough for us electronics hobbyists to program!!
    there is exe file solution for ML-1660 here
    also good discussion
    Can you please arrange for a exe file solution to reset the counter?
    Your video is too hazy ,please give a new video with close up details

  8. Hello Tipu bhai,
    Probably 1660 software solution will not work with 1666, I might be wrong though. Once I tried and failed (made my printer dead). There is a discussion here:

    Regarding microcontroller for hobbyist or beginner, it is true that it is very difficult to get started in Bangladesh. The main problem is arranging the programmer. As cheap programmer is not available at all as it is in other countries, like pickit or compatible programmers, for Atmel too. There are only few universal programmers available, only at few shops. Which are very expensive and not from reputed brands/manufacturers.

    The beginner has to make his own programmer from the scratch. And, if he is interested to make a USB programmer, there is another problem to make/program the 1st chip needed for the programmer itself. So, only option is left is to make a serial programmer. If he has an old computer that has serial port, then it’s ok. It does not work with usb to serial converter/adapter cable. At this stage, anyone can feel frustrated and leave these totally. I understand this :). If you are only interested in this resetter, better don’t go to the hassle for making programmer etc. for this. Try to get a resetter from any friend or someone living abroad. You only need this once or twice in year. Or wait for a software solution. If samsung releases official “usbprns2.exe” and firmware to backup and upgrade then probably there is chance.

    There is also a method to reset this by communicating to toner eeprom via computer. You would need an old computer with serial port, since usb to serial port probably will not work. Take a look here:

    Video quality…. It was taken with mobile phone in highest resolution 🙂 nothing can be done.

    Go on experimenting & Best of luck.


    1. Once I tried ML 1660 .34 AND flashed ml 1666 and failed (made my printer dead) what should i do now. please help.
      do i need a new motherboard . or it can be repaired.
      please help

  9. তৌহীদ ভাই,

    আমি এটা বুক করেছি, এস. এ পরিবহন রিসিপ্ট নং 553600, তারিখ 07/05/11.


  10. Rabiul vai, plz amake ekta resetter banaya pathan. I will pay you. plz vai apni jodi paren tahole ekta knock diyen. ami amer address and payment pathiye debo.

    1. ভাই এটা আপনি নিজেই পারবেন। সাহস করে শুরু করেন, আর যদি শেষে নাই হয়, তাহলেও আর কতইবা লোকসান হবে? বড়জোর পাঁচশো টাকা, কিন্তু অনেক কিছুতো শেখাও হবে। আপনি এটি ভেরোবোর্ডে তৈরী করুন, কোথাও আটকে গেলে আপনি আর আমি দুজনেই চেষ্টা করবো সমাধান করার ইনশাল্লাহ। কিন্তু পুরোটাই আমি একা করবো আর আপনি কিছুই করবেননা, এটা ঠিক না :)।


  11. Rabiul bhai
    I made the JDM2 programmer
    WinPic800 says when i try to load your hex file
    “error PIC-16F73.hex
    line 129
    Invalid address for the selected device”
    Can you please confirm your hex file is without errors?

    1. Hello Tipu Bhai,
      It’s really nice to know that you have made JDM programmer, congratulation!

      I can’t understand where is the problem. Can you please post a picture of it, not the
      schematic only but the one you have made + schematic. Hope you are using real serial port, not usb to serial adapter. Also check the diodes and transistors, specially the diodes. Try another program like ‘icprog’ for programming the chip. These programmers are good if they work at the 1st chance, else you have to be prepared for long testing. If the above fails, next thing to do is to try it on another computer with serial port.

      By the way, can you program any other hex file with it successfully? You can determine whether the resetter hex file you have downloaded is corrupt or not, by using a simulator. You can use ‘gpsim’ or ‘proteus’. It would be slightly difficult to setup and use gpsim if you never used it before. For proteus it would be easier. I have posted an image bellow for a quick test. Set it up as shown, select PIC-16c73, instead of 16F73.
      Double click it and select the hex file, set clock frequency to 8 MHz. When you press the ‘Play’ button to start simulation, led ‘D1’ will be ON. If you go up to this, then the hex file is ok.

      Everything will be OK inshallah. First time pain you are seeing now, which is normal for almost everyone. Best of luck.

      Proteus test image:

  12. Rabiul bhai
    thanks for the quick reply!!
    there is no click button on your web page to upload image
    i also tried WinPic software and it says 1,217 errors and “programming failed”!!
    Hardware test however shows OK
    I dont have any other hex file with me so cant test it
    I am using my good old Gigabyte GA-945GM motherboard which has 9 pin serial port.
    After Googling a lot, i selected to make the free JDM2 Programmer from
    just register there and download the files.
    there is however one mistake in the schematic given which is easy to correct, the emitter and collector pins of Q2 BC 547 are shown reversed but correctly placed in layout
    the pcb layout does not have any tracks in between the 0.1″ pin to pin of IC base so easy to make without mistakes or short circuits.

    OK so i will try the Proteus simulation.
    thanks again!

    1. Tipu bhai,
      I think there is low voltage on MCLR/VPP pin of your programmer. Check with a multimeter, there should be at least 13v. On WinPic800 click on “Device -> Hardware Test”, and see the result. I could not test this on WinPic800 as there is no JDM programmer attached to my computer now (no serial port). Earlier I made JDM from the schematic mentioned above.

      If you get the voltage bellow 13v, try it on another computer. Try to make this programmer working to program a PIC-18F2550, then make a usb programmer like Pickit2 clone. This would be good for you, for future projects.

      Here, there is no option to upload image, you have to use flickr or photobucket like service and post the link. Anyway this is not important and can be done later.


  13. Yes, your suggestion is correct because i have selected low volts from the 3 pin voltage selector on the board fearing that the PIC may be damaged
    OK, i will set the jumper to full 13V and let you know the result later.
    Yes I have downloaded the full project of PicKit2 clone incl schematic and pcb layout and will make it when i get the time.
    but for now there is 10% toner left in my printer and i need to get your resetter into action asap.
    Thanks again for your valuable suggestions

  14. Rabiul bhai
    sorry to say that my JDM2 programmer is not working at all
    Can you please give me the schematic+pcb layout of the programmer that you used to program your PIC16F73?

    1. Tipu bhai,
      Sorry to know that it could not program. I made JDM programmer from this schematic:

      I made 2 of them & both worked well. I used stripboard, not pcb. The schematic is easy.

      But now I use “pickit2 clone” and “open programmer”, and programmed that 16F73 with pickit2 clone. Both are made on stripboard. So, no pcb.

      The link of the pickit-2 clone schematic is given bellow, see “Image – 2”. I followed this with slight change – component value etc.

      Hope you will be successful this time.

      Best wishes.

      Pickit 2 clone schematic:

  15. Rabiul bhai
    Thanks for your helpful links
    Let me check out the circuit diagram you have given with the one i have made.
    Using WinPic800 Device >Hardware Test gives “Hardware not responding” message
    At other times it says “Hardware is OK”
    Also PIC type is not recognised and says “Unknown type”
    how to know microcontroller is good or bad?
    The salesman said to buy four or five 16F73 from him because many will be damaged before you get one programmed right !!!

    Anyway thanks again

  16. Tipu bhai I think the chip is ok. These have hard life, I found that even after using wrong connection and voltage they survived. But it is always good to check another one, to be sure. Tipu bhai I think you should better avoid comparing the two circuits to detect the fault. It will draw lots of your attention and time, and finally leave you with a headache and no result. Better build the circuit and test. For you it would take less than an hour. By the way, whether it might be applicable to current situation or not, let me inform you that now there are too much inferior quality of transistors in the market. Even the new one will not work, I have bitter experience. Whenever you are going to buy, say them to give you the number 1 transistors. Price is 1 or 2 taka more than the common ones. Same for mosfets.
    There is no way to check the microcontroller whether ok or not, except programming and running.
    Check the icprog. So far I think Winpic800 is dedicated to their own programmer GTP Plus. I might be wrong though.
    Best wishes.

  17. Rabiul bhai
    When Hardware test says “Hardware not responding” it means to check the pcb again thoroughly for dry solder joints, hairline cracks etc and sure enough my pin 5 line from DB9 connector was open
    Now Hardware test is OK
    PIC correctly detected as 16F73
    but after programming it verify’s and gives message in WinPic software as follows–>
    Device has been erased.
    Programming and Verifying CODE, 0x000000..0x0004C3
    Verifying 0x000000..0x000FFF
    Verify Error: 000006: read 000601, wanted 000183
    Verify Error: 000007: read 003FFE, wanted 0000FE
    ERROR: Programming FAILED !
    please advise what is to be done now?how to rectify the errors?
    Is there any setting for 16F73 that need to be clicked like osc HS or RC etc?
    WinPic800 programs the Pic but when i click verify it shows the errors
    By the way i tried IC-Prog and it goes crazy when clicked to test hardware and i have to kill process from task manager
    Thanks again

  18. Can’t understand Tipu bhai, the verify result should not show any error. But seems you are close to make it all, since it passed hardware test and you can program too.

    You have to set the PIC-16F73 as usual for programming.

    * Pin 1 connected to VCC through a resistor.
    * Pin 20 Connected to VCC
    * Pin 8 Connected to GND
    * Pin 19 and Pin 20 having a crystal + 22pf capacitor to GND

    That’s the chip arrangement. And ICSP connection from the programmer to target chip as:

    * Programmer’s VPP/MCLR to Pin 1
    * Programmer’s ICSPDAT/PGD to Pin 28
    * Programmer’s ICSPCLK/PGC to Pin 27
    * Programmer’s VCC to target VCC
    * Programmer’s GND to target GND

    That’s all.

    You need to install driver for icprog, else you would get error – “Privileged …..” etc.

    Download icprog and driver:

    * Extract both zip files.

    * Keep icprog.exe and icprog.sys in the same folder.

    * Run icprog.exe. It would/may show error ‘Privileged….’

    * Click on Settings->Options->Misc. Check ‘Enable NT/2000/XP Driver’. Install the driver as suggested. Restart icprog.

    Hope you get the success.


    1. Dear,
      Prithwijit From Kolkata. I clean and simple 2 Question.

      1. Circuit Dia at the top of the Blog page is the Toner reset one , Yes or No.

      2. already studied all the URL provided in the blog by varies users, but unable to find/ sorry understand the proper way of JMD PIC programmer. (, pic number 1, just after the value declaration……. wherer is the power source,,,,, how to connect the PIC and pin config with which the circuit to be connected…..

      PLEASE FOR GODSAKE PROVIDE ME A COMEPLETE PIC PROGRAMMER DIAGRAM (will even hold good even a hand written one.) stating clearly the pin config, of the PIC, power supply etc, etc, on urgent…. I have arewady purchased all the components for rest circuit, but still now they are useless with UR ESTEEM HELP AND SUPPORT>>>>>>>>

      Prithwijit Kolkata

      1. Dear Prithwijit,
        Good to see you again. Seems like you are in a rush 🙂 ? An old proverb:

        “If luck is with thee, why hurry, if luck is against thee why hurry!”

        Anyway I think you are not in philosophy mood. So here I try to answer your question 🙂

        1. Yes.

        2. The JDM circuit does not need any external power supply. It draws the power from the serial port.

        Make the programmer. Buy a serial cable and cut it. Connect serial cable’s wires to the programmer. See the JDM circuit’s connector J1 (on the left side) and connect according to serial cable’s pin number. Use a multimeter to determine which wire goes to which pin. If necessary go to this link to be confirmed about pinout:

        After you make the programmer, see the circuit again. The connector J2 on the right side will be used to connect this programmer with the microcontroller. Click the image of that circuit and you will see the pin description of J2 connector. Which is as bellow:

        Pin 1 : MCLR
        Pin 2 : VDD
        Pin 3 : GND
        Pin 4 : DATA(PGD)
        Pin 5 : CLOCK(PGC)
        Pin 6 : GND

        Now get ready to program the microcontroller. Arrange the microcontroller – PIC16F73 on a breadboard with crystal, capacitors and resistor. See Image-4 here

        The “5v” and “GND” of the image would go to breadboard’s GND and POWER rail.

        After setting the chip on breadboard, connect programmer’s J2 pins to microcontroller’s pin as bellow:

        * Programmer’s MCLR to Pin 1
        * Programmer’s PGD to Pin 28
        * Programmer’s PGC to Pin 27
        * Programmer’s VDD to target/breadboard POWER Rail
        * Programmer’s GND to target/breadboard GND Rail

        Now use the software you like to program the chip. Use icprog or any other. Read the help file of the program if necessary. Mostly you would
        * Select the Programmer as “JDM Programmer”
        * Select Device as 16F73
        * Select COM Port where the programmer is connected
        * Open the hex file
        * Write/program chip.

        Best wishes.

      2. Dear, Sry One again Its me…..

        What is the Type of the SW1 Switch , Means is it a regular On/Off Switch and or a Tick-Tak stwitch (found in the on/off btn of a desktop)

      3. Hello Prithwijit,

        How are you?

        It’s an ordinary Push Button. When you press it, a connection to VCC(Positive) is established. When you release it the connection gets broken.

      4. Dear,
        made the jdm prog pcb, tried it with IC-Prog 10.5f, as porived by you,


        1. verify: device successfully verified.
        2. erease all: ok
        3. read all: no error (Generated by WinDis84, (c) Nigel Goodwin 1998.()
        4. prog all: error: proggming 4096 word, verified failed at 0000h!

        What to do, whr is the fault



      5. sry boss,,

        once i hv put on the 5v dc, D5 zenor diode 5.1v , gets heated up…. i have tried removing the 5v dc ,,, but same result…. in the 1 st occasion, i have wrongly connected the connection of Serial Port…. thats may be the reason,,,,, nly god knows….
        I realy… in bad shape now…

        Jodi, paren help korun…


      6. Dear Prithwijit,
        Try to test it with another software. For example – PICPgm, you can get it from here,

        If it fails, try it on another computer with real serial port.

        Error in programming may occur if there is low voltage on MCLR pin. The device goes to programming mode when there is 13 volts. For this reason usb to serial adapter will not work with JDM programmer. Since USB would supply 5v and JDM does not have any circuit to raise that 5v to 13v. Obviously there could be many other reasons. And I think you are using a real serial port.

        By the way, what is the value of the resistor on MCLR (Pin 1 to VDD)? Try using a 1k.

        Best wishes.

      7. Dear,
        Getting max 8v in pin no. 1 of the Pic, using Intel D41RQI, with serial header…

        it appears that my M/B is nt suppling enough power !!!!!….. as reqd . and described by u as 13v. may be the prob with the header , changed it, but same to same, mild .3-.5v diference,,,,, 13v shld be comming from the Serial Port itself….. am i right ???? what shld i do the 1 K register as u suggested against 47K in the pin 1 of the PIC. ??”

      8. Hello Prithwijit,
        I think your motherboard is OK. Let’s check again, (here I may make some mistake as I don’t have jdm connected. If you think something more should be done, or something is not necessary, do it accordingly please.)

        *Connect the programmer with pc and microcontroller.

        1. Run PICPgm. Here you should set Autodetect PIC. Click on the leftmost icon – “Autodetect Programmer Hardware”. What is the result? Click on Hardware->Hardware Selection/Configuration, see Port, here to set the COM port if needed. Anyway does it detect your programmer?

        2. Now click the next icon – “Autodetect PIC Type”. Does it automatically detect the PIC as 16F73?

        3. If the above are positive, click on Hardware->Hardware Selection/Configuration. Click on “Enable Test” under Hardware Test. Check the box “MCLR / Vpp”. Now measure the voltage on MCLR Pin. Uncheck this box, measure again. What is the results for these 2 tests? Uncheck all, check “Pull MCLR Low”, what is the voltage?

        It will be good if you can upload the image of your programmer, and connected microcontroller. You can use flickr and post the link.

        Take care.

        Best wishes

      9. Dear,
        Tried the same…. Have testd with PICPgm and tried to the autodetect PIC type , but failed,,,, and the Ans is “?” in all filed, also tried to test Hardware,but have not chkecked the Volt., but LED glows as u put on MCLR / Vpp….

  19. Rabiul bhai
    thanks again for the quick reply and valuable suggestions
    Yes i was indeed getting the error “Privileged….OK” in IC-Prog
    I will download the IC-Prog software as per your links and then see what happens.

  20. Rabiul bhai
    it works!!it works!!
    you are a genius!!what more can i say
    I have successfully reset the toner chip with your circuit.
    You just saved me Tk3,300 which is the cost of a new replacement toner cartridge!!
    1 kg of virtual roshogollas and lal mohon for you!!he he he
    We should all be proud to have a talented person like you among us!!
    every software has its own setting techniques.
    IC-Prog only worked as per your setting instructions and it verified that the programming is OK

    Thanks again !

    1. Alhamdulillah Tipu bhai, very happy to know that it works. Thanks a lot for the roshogollas 🙂 and your patience. I really appreciate the patience you have shown.

      Best of luck.

    2. টিপু ভাই,
      আপনার টোনারে যদি কাজ করে তবে আপনি যদি সার্কিট ডায়াগ্রামটি পাঠাতেন তবে বেশ ভালো হত। আমি নিজেই বানানোর চেষ্টা করতাম।

  21. Rabiul bhai
    Can you please give me the link to the Pickit2 clone circuit that you gave as Image 2

    so that i can download the pcb layout etc and construct it.
    and best wishes!

    1. Tipu bhai,
      I don’t remember now from where I downloaded it. But I get 2 links now from google if I search with the keyword ‘”minipk2.jpg”‘ and it did not have a pcb:“minipk2.jpg”

      You will find pcb for pickit2 clone on google. For example this site is having it:

      Do you make pcb by toner transfer method? If so, would you mind to write a ‘How To’ about it for the user of Bangladesh? That is because, in Bangladesh paper like “Press N Peel” is not available, which is mentioned on many How To found on the web. Often there is suggestion to use magazine papers. Which magazine paper, or other paper can be used here? Add as much info as you care to supply.

      Thank you in advance.

      Take care.

  22. Rabiul bhai
    the site you gave is too complicated.
    Rather i have got the PicKit2 Lite circuit of blueroomelectronics and a few others.
    Regarding the toner transfer method you will get a lot of videos at youtube on how to do it—-that’s where i learn’t it
    What is used is thin glossy paper, we keep the Daily Star newspaper and the Friday magazine front and back cover is ideal for toner transfer

    with best regards

    1. Thanks Tipu bhai. Once I tried with Inkjet Photo Paper (Matt finished) and it did not work. I haven’t tried again with other papers. Next time when I get the chance, I shall follow your suggestion Inshallah.

      I haven’t seen the blueroomelectronics PCB. In fact I did not concentrate on any PCB for the pickit 2 clone, even the link I posted above. I saw the bluroomelectronics is mentioned on many forums regarding pickit2. So you can go for it. Finally, all the schematics are almost same, some times with minor change in component value. Follow any one which is easier to understand.

      Take care.

    1. Thank you Tipu bhai. That is indeed a nice tutorial. There I found the ‘New’ inkjet papers don’t work for PCB . I did not know that. Now let’s wait for a small PCB & will try it again. I got a nice mini drill too at a very low price – 140 Taka 🙂 This will also go through the test.

      Best regards.

  23. Rabiul bhai
    ki bepaar , shob chuup chaap, kono khobor nai
    all quiet on the western front!!
    Hope you are fine
    I am building the PicKit2 clone so need to first load the hex file into the 18F2550
    So made a Art2003 hardware to do it but the WinPic800 does not recognise the 18F2550, says unknown PIC and gives errors during programming
    Since you have made a USB programmer, so i was thinking if you have any suggestions or any tips on how to do it?
    Is there any other alternative to the Art2003?
    thanks !
    best regards

    1. টিপু ভাই,
      যা বলার ছিলো আমরা সব বলে ভান্ডার শেষ করে ফেলেছি বোধ হয়। তাই সব চুপচাপ। 🙂 Alhamdulillah I am fine and hope you are well too.

      Why are you trying with Art2003? I have no experience about this, but I heard parallel port programmers are too slow. You could try with the JDM you made earlier. I see there is no support in icprog for 18F2550. But PicPgm has it. So you can try it.

      Thinking to make something simple to try the toner transfer again. But having back pain – wrist pain etc and feeling lazy. May be I shall make an emergency light, it’s easy, and may be this night Inshallah.

      Take care and best wishes.

  24. Rabiul bhai
    i made the Art2003 because thats what i found everyone is doing (by Googling)
    Yes i have my JDM2 hardware but is that not a 13V Vpp(pin1) whereas 18F2550 requires 5V at pin 20(Vdd)?i am confused
    i am still not sure about the voltages in the JDM but it is definitely said to program the 18F2550 by LVP(low voltage programming)
    thanks again
    best regards

    1. Tipu Bhai,
      People make Art2003, because it is probably easier to make than the JDM.

      You would program the 18F2550 same as you did for the 16F73. VDD would be 5v, and VPP/MCLR would be 13v – these are OK with your programmer as it should be. This 13v on MCLR pin is not always available, the software will decide when there should be 13v to enter programming mode and when to stop. So, you may not get 13v always if you check with a multimeter and it is normal.

      You don’t have to worry about LVP. In case, you are interested to know more about it, read the 18F2550’s datasheet page 308. Anyway, you don’t need to go through these. Just do it as before.

      Best of luck.

  25. Rabiul bhai
    you are simply amazing !!
    i successfully programmed the 18F2550 with its hex file using PicPgm in 5 minutes
    using my JDM hardware
    whereas Art2003 and WinPic800 diya matha kharab hoye gelo
    again 1 kg of virtual roshogollas for you !! he he he
    Now to complete the actual pcb of PicKit2 clone
    i am following the Palma circuit where the zif socket is on the board itself
    Its in Spanish so you need to paste the URL address in to get the English version
    There is however one confusion in PicPgm,when i want to “read” and save the hex file, the hex file saved is bigger than the one that i programmed with?
    This PicPgm can also program 16F73 so i read and saved the hex code for the toner resetter and here also the saved hex file is bigger than the original hex file??can you please clarify?
    thanks again for the help
    best regards

  26. No idea Tipu bhai. Probably ‘Akismet’ is filtering comments. I also don’t have much idea of this wordpress interface or controls. I shall check.

  27. Ok, found it in spam folder 🙂
    You praising is not correct according to Akismet. And it is true. As I have gone through these before, I got little experience – nothing else. You are thinking I know lots about these. Truth has to be told, which is I know very little 😦

    Alhamdulillah your device worked. I shall check the PCB or schematic of your Pickit2 Clone. By the way, reading and original hex file size mismatch is ok. To understand the difference use a diff program like ‘HXD Hex Editor’. Probably you would find the PicPgm has saved the complete capacity of the 16F73 – ending the file with zero etc (I have not checked). While the original is only the size of the program. You may also not get the correct result with HxD as there is some Intel Hex File Format things. Right now I can not make it clear to you. Better you read some about these on wiki or through google. Anyway not needed for now.

    Will see the schematic Inshallah. Seems ok, but where is the ICSP header?

  28. Tipu bhai, do not make this one. It has no ICSP header, rather it uses zif socket. It has both advantages and disadvantages. For mass programming it is ok. Say for example, you are going to produce 100 pieces of this resetter. And for this kind of matter it is good.

    But not suitable for hobbyist, as your circuit will be on the breadboard. You will test 100s of times by changing code and programming the microcontroller. Every time you will not be able to put this on zif socket -> Program -> Remove From the zif -> Put again to the breadboard.

    If I am not wrong, I think your next step would be trying to write program by yourself. At least this is what I expect.

    Take care and best wishes.

  29. Rabiul bhai
    good to hear from you again
    i am only a hobbyist and do not need to program 100’s of PIC’s !!
    I just have some hobby schematics with Pic which need to be programmed
    first, thanks for the HXD Hex Editor , i have downloaded it from my favorite site
    secondly, i did not understand the ICSP concept, like 5 or 6 pin header on the pcb.
    where and how to connect to the Pic which is to be programmed? it all seems incomplete !
    Anyway, I have a good ICSP type Pickit2 schematic with pcb, maybe later make that one also.
    just out of curiosity i wanted to check the hex file in the Pic with the one given to program and compare it to be 100% sure programming was OK but it did not work
    thanks again
    best regards !!

  30. Tipu bhai, I understand that you are a hobbyist, as no professional or very few would iron old magazine paper to make pcb. By the way, I am working hard (almost) to get this toner transfer work. I have successfully transfer the toner on copper clad board by now Alhamdulillah. Used thin advertisement leaflet. I do not want to use magazine or this kind of leaflet paper. As this is uncertain to get these papers anytime when needed. I wish to buy some thin glossy paper A4 size from the market. I have a laminator and would try to use that. Trying to get these in a system or pattern – like glossy paper 80 gsm, 4 or 6 passes through laminator at 120 C or whatever it needs.

    “ICSP” is the one you made earlier with JDM programmer. In simple your VPP/MCLR, VDD, GND, PGD, PGC connection is the ICSP header. Original Pickit2 is also having the same (Just 1 pin more – Aux). So the ICSP connection for programming is known to you – which you did for 16F73 and 18F2550.

    You can also get this ICSP connection from the “zif socket” one. Just get wires from the correct pins/tracks. See the schematic and PCB you have.

    Take care and best regards.

  31. Rabiul bhai
    nice to hear you are making pcb with toner transfer method
    have you set the properties setting in ML-1666 to maximum dark toner?otherwise with normal printer setting you will not get good print out
    Also ensure you are getting 0.1 inch IC base pin to pin distance in your final print
    I searched the stationary shops for thin glossy paper but could not find it, they dont keep it, hence the old magazine covers
    good luck!

    best regards.

  32. Tipu bhai,
    Thank you for the suggestion.

    Alhamdulillah, I am getting very good result with the toner transfer method. Now it seems like any paper is working. I tried different types and all worked. The latest one was not that glossy, but it worked too. So, paper is not problem anymore for now. In fact I bought this Samsung printer for “PCB toner transfer” and it has served well.

    By the way, thin glossy paper would not be available at the stationary shops. This can be found in the wholesale paper shops. These shops are mostly at the place where printing press and publishing business are located. For Dhaka probably Banglabazaar and for Chittagong it is Anderkilla. And perhaps the paper size will be 20″ X 30″ sheet. So from 1 sheet, 6 A4 size sheets can be found. There is this kind of shop who cuts paper to the required size. May charge about 40/50 taka.

    That’s all for now. Take care.

  33. সালাম ভাইয়া,
    আমি মিরপুর এ থাকি, আমি একটা রিসেটার পেতে চাই,
    আপনি যদি কষ্ট করে একটা বানিয়ে দিতেন তাহলে, খুবই উপকৃত হতাম।
    আর আপনার উপযুক্ত সম্মানি প্রদান যদিও আমাদের পক্ষে দেয়া সম্ভব নয় তাও আমি আমার সাধ্যের মধ্যে চেষ্টা করবো, যদি আপনি কিছুটা কষ্ট স্বীকার করতে অনুগ্রহ করে রাজী হন।

    1. ওয়া আলাইকুমুসসালাম আরাফাত ভাই,

      আমার ইচ্ছা হয় যারাই এটা চায় তাদের এটা তৈরী করে দেই, এটা এমন কিছু বড় জিনিষ না। কিন্তু এর চাইতেও বেশী ইচ্ছা ছিল যে এটা আগ্রহীরা নিজেরাই তৈরী করবে। এটা করতে গিয়ে তাদের এই ইলেকট্রনিক্সে একটা হবি তৈরী হবে। সফল হলে যে আনন্দ পাওয়া যাবে তা যে বোঝানো যায়না। এমনিতেই তো আমাদের দেশে বিনোদনের তেমন কিছুই নেই, এটা একটা ভালো জিনিষ ছিলো। মনে হচ্ছে আমার প্ল্যান ফেল করেছে।

      আরাফাত ভাই আমি এখন অন্য কিছু কাজে আটকে আছি, তাই এখন এটা সম্ভব না, দুঃখিত ভাই। টিপু ভাই এটা তৈরী করেছেন। টিপু ভাইকে বলছি, আপনি কি দয়া করে একটা রিসেটার বানিয়ে দিতে পারবেন আরাফাত ভাইয়ের জন্য? আর যদিও আপনারা সকলেই এর দাম সম্পর্কে ধারনা রাখেন, তারপরও আমি দামের ব্যাপারে একটা প্রস্তাব রাখছি – ৫০০ টাকা, আ্যডাপটার ছাড়া। আপনারা এই প্রস্তাব রাখতে বা না রাখতে পারেন, আমার কোনই আপত্তি নাই। এর মাধ্যমে কেউ মনে কোন কষ্ট পেলে আমি আন্তরিকভাবে দুঃখিত ও ক্ষমাপ্রার্থী।

      Tipu bhai, hope you have unicode and Bangla font installed, and can read the above. What do you say?

      Looking forward for a fruitful result.

      Best regards.

  34. আস সালামু আলাইকুম,
    ধন্যবাদ আপনার উত্তরের জন্য, আপনার উদ্দেশ্যটি আসলেই মহৎ, আমিও এক সময় ইলেক্ট্রনিক্স নিয়ে কিছুটা ঘাঁটাঘাটি করেছিলাম, সেটা ছিলো হবিস্ট লেভেলের একেবারে শুরুর পর্যায়ের এবং সময়টা ছিলো ২০০০ সালে। কিন্তু আমি বর্তমানে আমি বাসার বাইরে ব্যচেলর লাইফে আছি, যেখানে এই সঙ্ক্রান্ত কাজ কর্ম করা বর্তমান বাংলাদেশ প্রেক্ষাপটে কিছুটা রিস্কি এবং আমার ল্যাপীতে সিরিয়াল পোর্টও নাই। আমিও চাই কাজটা নিজেই করি কিন্তু সেজন্য আমাকে বন্ধু-বান্ধবের বাসায় গিয়ে, সংশ্লিষ্ট সব কিছু কিনে একেবারে শুন্য থেকে শুরু করে হবে। আর তাও নিজে করার একটা চিন্তা মাথায় রাখলাম।
    আর আপনার প্রস্তাবটিও খুবই সুন্দর। এডাপ্টার সহ যদি প্রস্তাবিত সম্মানীর(খরচের/মুল্যের) মধ্যে করে দিতে পারতেন তাহলে আমার খুবই উপকার হত। বলে রাখা ভালো আমি এখনো পড়ালেখারত আছি।

    আমি এখনো প্রিন্টারটিই কিনিনি! আপনাদের কার্টিজ রিসেট সংশ্লিষ্ট সহযোগীতার উপর নির্ভর করে কিনতে আশা করছি।

    আরেক টি কথা, ইনিশিয়াল যে কার্টিজ টি দেয়া হবে সেটি কি রিসেট করা যাবে? তা নাহলে তো প্রিন্টার+নতুন কার্টিজ মিলে তো আমার প্রায় ৳ ১০০০০/- এর মত চলে যাবে।

    ইতোমধ্যে আমি একটি পুরনো ২০১০ কার্টিজ ছাড়া কিনার খোজ পেয়েছি। আশা করছি আপনার কাছ থেকে এ সম্পর্কেও কোন পরামর্শ পেতে পারি।

  35. আরেক টি কথা ভুলে গিয়েছিলাম, এডাপ্টার সহ যদি প্রস্তাবিত সম্মানীর(খরচের/মুল্যের) মধ্যে একে বারেই সম্ভব না হয় তাহলে এডাপ্টারটির ধরন ও মুল্য কি রকম হবে সে সম্পর্কেও উপদেশ আশা করছি।

    1. আমি “আ্যডাপটার ছাড়া” মূলত এজন্য বলেছিলাম যে, এটা কিনতে যাতে উনাকে মার্কেটে যেতে না হয়।

      দাম কত হবে আর? মনে হয় ৬০/৭০ টাকা, নরমাল আ্যডাপটার ৫ ভোল্ট, ৬ ভোল্টেও অসুবিধা নেই।

  36. আরাফাত ভাই,
    আপনার অন্য প্রশ্নটির ব্যপারে ভুলে গিয়েছিলাম। এটা দিয়ে ইনিশিয়াল কার্টিজই টেস্ট করেছি রিসেটের জন্য। কমার্শিয়াল কার্টিজ হাতে না পাওয়ায় টেস্ট করতে পারি নাই।

    Samsung 2010 এর ব্যপারে বলতে পারবনা ভাই, test না করে বলা যাবেনা। ML-1666 এ যে কার্টিজ ব্যবহার হয়, তা হলো MLT-D1043S – আর এটা ব্যবহার হয় ML-1666, ML-1661 মডেলে। ML-1666 এ তো রিসেট কাজ করছে, ML-1661 এ test করা হয় নাই। যাই হোক আমার মনে হয় Samsung 2010 এ এটা কাজ করবেনা।

    আরেকটা ব্যাপার, আপনি যদি PCB Toner Transfer না করেন, তাহলে এই লেজার প্রিন্টার কেন কিনতে চাচ্ছেন? এটা দিয়ে কালার প্রিন্ট করতে পারবেননা। আর এর Black প্রিন্ট কোয়ালিটি যে ইন্কজেট প্রিন্টার থেকে খুব বেশী ভালো, এমন বলা যাবেনা। আপনি বরং Software Reset করা যায়, এমন কোন ইন্কজেট প্রিন্টার খোঁজ করুন, ক্যানন ভালো – আপনি যদি মনে করেন অন্যটা ভালো হবে তাও ভালো। এগুলো মোটামুটি সব একই।

  37. আস সালামু আলাইকুম,
    ভাইয়া আমার পড়ার অভ্যাস বেশি, কিন্তু স্ক্রিনে পরতে পারিনা তাই প্রিন্ট করে যেকোন সময় পরতে পারার জন্য প্রিন্টার ব্যবহার করি আর ব্যগে করে সারাদিন ঘুরার ফাঁকে ফাঁকে পড়ি। এছাড়া আমার একাডেমিক পড়ালেখা সংশ্লিষ্ট বিভিন্ন রেফেরেন্স বই প্রায়ই ডাউনলোড করি এবং প্রিন্ট করতেও হয়। বর্তমানে একটি ক্যানন পিক্সমা আইপি ১৩০০ আছে, কিন্তু এর প্রিন্টে পানি লাগলে কালি ছেড়ে দেয়, আর প্রিন্ট ও ইকনোমিক না। তাই লেজার এ বিকল্প খুজছিলাম। আমার জানা মতে ২০১০ তে কোন কাউন্টার নাই।
    কিন্তু যদি আপনাদের রিসেটার টা পাই, তাহলে নতুন ১৬৬৬ ই কিনব কারন ২০১০ টা পুরনো + একটা কার্টিজ সহ প্রায় ১৬৬৬ এর নতুনের কাছাকাছি দামই পরবে।
    তাই যদি আমাকে একটা ব্যবস্থা করে দিতেন তাহলে খুবই উপকার হত, এবং আমি ২০১০ বিক্রেতাকে মানা করে দিতাম। আমি ২০১০ বিক্রেতা থেকে আগামি শুক্রবার পর্যন্ত সময় নিয়েছি।
    আশা করি ইনশাল্লাহ একটা ব্যবস্থা হয়ে যাবে।
    আর আমি এডাপ্টার ছাড়াই আপনার প্রস্তাবে রাজি আছি।

  38. ওয়া আলাইকুমুসসালাম আরাফাত ভাই,
    ধন্যবাদ আপনার সুন্দর লেখার জন্য। আমি কিছু মানুষ দেখেছি আপনার মতো, ঘুরাফিরা বা গান শুনতে শুনতে পড়তে পারে। এটা আমি কখনোই পারি না। মনযোগ ভাগ হয়ে যাচ্ছে না?

    আমি ক্যানন পিক্মমা 1700 বহুদিন ব্যবহার করেছি, রিসেটের জন্য ভালো। আরো ভালো পুরনো এইচ পি, যাতে কাউন্টার নেই – বিশাল কার্টিজ – ইচ্ছামত কালি ঢুকান। পানি লাগলে কালি ছেড়ে দেয় – এটা খেয়াল করি নাই। হয়তো ঘোরাঘুরি করে পড়ার অভ্যাস থাকলে এই অভিজ্ঞতাও হতো 🙂 – কিছু মনে করবেননা ভাই, ঠাট্টা করলাম। আর আপনি ঠিকই বলেছেন – রিফিল করলে লেজার ইকনমিক। এরাতো প্রিন্টার প্রায় ফ্রীই দেয়, উদ্দেশ্য হলো কার্টিজ বিক্রী করে পরে লাভ তুলে নেবে।

    টিপু ভাই সম্ভবত ওনার প্রজেক্ট নিয়ে ব্যস্ত, তাই এদিকে না আসায় আমাদের লক্ষ্য করেননি। দেখেন কি হয়, শুক্রবার পর্যন্ত তে সময় আছে। আরেকটা কথা আরাফাত ভাই, আপনি যে বললেন আমার প্রস্তাবে রাজি আছেন – এখানে আমি, আপনি রাজির পাশাপাশি টিপু ভাইয়েরও রাজি হওয়ার ব্যপার রয়েছে। আর সেটাই মূল্যবান – কারন আমি প্রস্তাব করেছিলাম টিপু ভাই যদি এটা করেন…… তো যদি উনার সাড়া না পাওয়া যায় – আমার আপনার রাজি অরাজি মূল্যহীন। দ্বিতীয়ত, আপনার সাথে আমার যেভাবে বা যতটুকু পরিচয়, উনার সাথেও তাই। এই ওয়েব পেজের মাধ্যমে, এর বাইরে কোন যোগাযোগ নেই। এটা আপনাকে আমার সীমাবদ্ধতার ব্যপারে একটা ধারনা দেয়ার জন্যই বলা, প্রসংগক্রমে, আপনি লিখেছেন – “কিন্তু যদি আপনাদের রিসেটার টা পাই……..”।

    তো ভাই আজ এ পর্যন্তই। আবারো ধন্যবাদ – খোদা হাফেজ।

    1. আস সালামু আলাইকুম,
      ভাই উত্তরের জন্য ধন্যবাদ।
      ভাই কোটেশন করা শেষ লাইনের উদ্দেশ্য বুঝতে পারিনি! যদি সেখানে “আপনাদের রিসেটার” শব্দদ্বয় এর কারনে হয়ে থাকে তাহলে আমি আমার পক্ষ থেকে একটি কথা বলে নিজের অবস্থান পরিষ্কার করা প্রয়োজন বলে মনে করছি। উল্লেখিত শব্দদ্বয় দিয়ে আমি বলেতে চেয়েছি যে রিসেটার টি আপনি ও টিপু ভাই ব্যবহার করছেন তা। শব্দদ্বয় লিখার সময়ও হঠাত “আপনাদের” শব্দটি আমারো কেন জানি অসামঞ্জস্যপুর্ন ঠেকে ছিলো, কিন্তু গতকাল(১৪/০৬) দুপুর দুটো থেকে আমার মাসিক পরিক্ষা থাকায় এত চিন্তা করিনি, শুধু লিখে গিয়েছি। আশা করি বুঝতে পারছেন!

      আর টিপু ভাইয়ের মেইল এড্রেস খুব সম্ভবত আপনার ব্লগ সাইটের এডমিন পেজে অথবা ডাটাবেজে পেতে পারেন, সু্যোগ হলে যদি উপকার করেন তাহলে আশা করি আপনিও উপকৃত হবেন কোন ভিন্ন একসময়, ভিন্ন কারো দ্বারা ! Thats the WAY of the WORLD set by Almighty ALLAH. Please Consider my Urge.

      আর প্রিন্টার এর জন্য আমি ৳ ৫০০০/- বাজেট পাবো বাকিটা নিজে ম্যনেজ করবো, এইচপি’র কোন নির্দিষ্ট মডেল যদি আপনার জানা থাকে তাহলে জানালে ভিন্ন কিছু চিন্তার সুযীগ হত।

      আল্লাহ হাফেয।

  39. ওয়া আলাইকুমুসসালাম আরাফাত ভাই,
    “কোটেশন করা শেষ লাইনের উদ্দেশ্য..” আমিও বোধহয় বোঝাতে পারবোনা। অন্তর যা বুঝে ভাষায় তা সবসময় প্রকাশ করা যায়না। সীমিত শব্দভান্ডার নিয়ে আমাদের ভাববিনিময়ের চেষ্টা, আল্লাহ বলেছেন না যে, মানবসন্তান তোমাকে অতি সামান্যই জ্ঞান দেওয়া হয়েছে। যাই হোক, মোটামুটি এরকম, আপনি যদি মনে করেন আমি অনুরোধ করলে এটা টিপু ভাই করবেন, এটা ভুল। আর হয়তো ভেবে থাকতে পারেন উনার সাথে আমার যোগাযোগ আছে, তাও ভুল। ভালো কথা উনার ইমেইল এ্যাড্রেস সম্ভবত আছে এই wordpress এ, আমি আগে দেখেছিলাম। কিন্তু অনুমতি ছাড়া আপনাকে দিতে পারবোনা, আর আমিও হঠাৎ ইমেইল পাঠিয়ে উনাকে বিব্রত করতে চাইনা। তো এটা এখানে আপাতত শেষ হলো।

    আমি HP-810c ব্যবহার করেছি। এসব এখন আর পাওয়া যায়না। আগের যেকোন HP ই ভালো, অত্যন্ত মজবুত, এগুলোকে workhorse বলা হতো। এখনকার গুলো নয়, এখনকার গুলো রাবিশ। HP-810c এর একটা ইন্কজেট কার্টিজের দামে আপনি একটা নতুন প্রিন্টার কিনতে পারবেন, যাতে একটা Black আর একটা Color কার্টিজ ফ্রী পাবেন। এই ক্যালকুলেশন আপনাকে আর এটা কিনতে দেবেনা। ঠিক কিনা?

    আমি আসলেই কিছু ব্যপারে জড়িয়ে আছি। এগুলো শেষ না করে অন্য কিছুতে হাত দিতে চাইনা। নইলে আপনাকে এতোটা বিভ্রান্তিতে ফেলতাম না। যাহোক আল্লাহ ভরসা, একটা কিছু হবে। চিন্তার কিছু নেই। সর্বশেষ যেটা নিয়ে আছি – Image-5

    বুঝতে পেরেছেন এটা কি? সোজা প্রশ্ন। এটাতে একটা গুরুত্বপূর্ন জিনিষ নেই। ধরতে পেরেছেন? দেখি আপনার কতো বুদ্ধি! 🙂

    এটাই এখন মোটামুটি শেষ কাজ।

    ফী আমানিল্লাহ্।

    * রিসেটারটি আমরা দুজনে ছাড়াও ব্যবহার হচ্ছে। এখানে তার উল্যেখ অপ্রাসঙ্গিক।

  40. আস সালামু আলাইকুম,
    ভাই শেষ পর্যিন্ত কি কোন আশা নেই আমার, কারো পক্ষ থেকে একটি বানানো রিসেটার পাওয়ার!
    যদি তাই হয় 😦 আমার মনে হয় উচিত হবে পুরোনো ML-2010 টিই কিনে নতুন একটি কার্টিজ কিনে ব্যবহার করা। দেখি তাও যদি উপরের সব কিছু পুনরায় আগাগোড়া পড়ে যদি আল্লাহর রহমতে বুঝে আসে তাহলে ১৬৬৬ টাই কিনবো।
    রবিউল ভাই কে অসঙ্খ্য ধন্যবাদ পরামর্শ দিয়ে সহায়তা করার জন্য।
    আল্লাহর দরবারে আপনার জন্য রইলো দোয়া যেন সবার উপকারে আল্লাহ আপনার মেধাকে ব্যবহার করার জন্য কবুল করে নেন ও সুস্থতার সাথে নেক হায়াত দেন।

  41. লিঙ্কের সব কিছু দেখে ও বিবেচনা করে আমার কেন যেন মনে হচ্ছে কারো পক্ষ থেকে আমরা সবাই হয়ত বাণিজ্যিক ভিত্তিতে রিসেটার টি পেতে যাচ্ছি। 🙂

    1. ওয়া আলাইকুমুসসালাম আরাফাত ভাই,
      আশা নেই বলছেন কেন ভাই? আমি আপনাকে শুক্রবার পর্যন্ত দেখতে বলেছি আর বলেছি চিন্তা না করতে। দেখেন কারো পক্ষ থেকে যদি পেয়ে যান তাহলে তো কথাই নেই, আলহামদুলিল্লাহ সমস্যার সমাধান। তবে কোন লিঙ্কের কথা বলছেন?

      আমি যতটুকু বুঝেছি আপনার 2010, 1666 এর চাইতে অনেক ভালো হবে। প্রথমত আপনি বলেছেন এতে কাউন্টার নেই, তাই রিসেটের ঝামেলাও নেই (প্রয়োজনে আরো খোঁজ নিয়ে নিশ্চিত হোন)। দ্বিতীয়ত আপনি নিচের ভিডিও দুটি দেখুন। একটি 2010 এর টোনার, অন্যটি 1666 এর। 2010 এর টি স্ক্রু খুলে রিফিল করা যাচ্ছে, কিন্তু 1666 কিন্তু sealed – এই সীল আপনাকে কেটে খুলতে হবে, রিফিলের পর আবার কোনভাবে লাগাতে হবে। কিছুটা ঝামেলার, 2010 এ এই ঝামেলা নেই।

      আপনি লিখেছেন – “আমার মনে হয় উচিত হবে পুরোনো ML-2010 টিই কিনে নতুন একটি কার্টিজ কিনে ব্যবহার করা…”, আমার মনে হয় আপনি যদি একটি পুরনো খালি টোনার 500 টাকার মধ্যে জোগাড় করতে পারতেন তাহলে ভালো হতো, টোনার ইন্ক কেনায় যাবে 300 টাকার মতো। সব মিলিয়ে ধরেন 1000 টাকাই, কিন্তু নতুনে প্রায় 2500 টাকা লাগবে। তবে আমার ভুলও হতে পারে, পুরনো টোনারটি যদি খারাপ হয় – তাহলে পুরো টাকাটাই গেল।

      দেখেন চিন্তাভাবনা করে। আল্লাহ আপনার ভালো করুন।

  42. as salamu alaikum,
    i missed the ml2010 printer, as the guy already sold out w/o asking my confirmation though he said, he will be waiting till last friday, in my request. may b now i have to think seriously of making a reseter above for me if no one comes to aid.

  43. Wa Alaikumussalaam.
    So the ML 2010 has slipped away.
    You are thinking the right way – make by own – DIY. I appreciate this.

    There is also no need to hurry, if you buy this printer today – the toner is not going to be empty tomorrow. So take your time, arrange the items/components. Think the design and start in the name of Allah. Remaining lots of time.

    If your project fails, I shall make you one Inshallah. So, don’t worry.

  44. Rabiul bhai
    amar salaam niben
    I used the resetter again but this time it seems to have damaged the toner chip because only red led coming on the printer and printer not working
    Any ideas why it is so because it is the same PIC16F73 with the same circuit board that worked perfectly last time.
    The leds light up correctly , first red led , then green led, and last of all yellow led and back to red led
    I also programmed your latest version of the firmware on another PIC and also same result—the printer is dead
    Also please explain why a new version of firmware is made and is there any changes in the circuit diagram?
    Also why the warning “This resetter may damage your toner cartridge.”? It defeats the very purpose of making a resetter which may damage my toner cartridge !!
    With what program the .pcb and .sch files are to be opened?
    thanks and best regards !

  45. Salaam Tipu bhai,
    There was a bug with the firmware. Which is what you are facing. This is why the 2nd firmware. There is nothing to change in the hardware. Just program the chip with 2nd firmware. It should fix the problem you are facing (toner is not detected and red light is ‘ON’ on the printer). The Designspark is to be used for opening the files. Don’t worry, use the 2nd firmware, everything will be fine Inshallah. I too faced this and it is a minor thing. Use your previous hardware with new firmware. The warning is a general disclaimer – which means I take no responsibility. Should I not write something like that 🙂 ?


    1. The eeprom chip inside the toner has a life of write cycles. So far as I remember 1 million times (google to be sure) – that means, you can write for that many times, and after that, the chip may not work. If you can write the chip properly with the 2nd firmware it should be ok. If it is already dead then nothing to do as the firmware will not be able to write on it (actually there is way, use another eeprom chip – price is approximately 30 Taka, however …).

    2. Right now I am out of station for about a week, so probably can’t help much about practical testing etc.

  46. Rabiul bhai
    thanks for the quick reply
    I used the new firmware and got no result
    So from where can i get another eeprom chip that costs Tk30 only?
    I had a spare toner cartridge with me so my printing work has not been hampered.
    thanks !
    with best regards

    1. Did you get all the 3 leds make blink? It should work, try again. The bug in the 1st firmware is like – the last 2 digits of the serial number is reduced to 0 -> then 9 again, one after another, and the error was once it would be a byte not between 0 to 9. But the new firmware is not like it in reducing, it would generate almost random number 0 – 9. So, there is nothing much complicated that may make it ‘not working’. Anyway….

      If you are in Dhaka this chip is probably available in Patuatuli or Stadium Market.

      Best wishes.

  47. Rabiul bhai
    thanks again for the quick reply
    yes the led’s blink correctly just like your video at the top of this page, first red led , then green led, and last of all yellow led and then back to red led
    i opened the side cover and took the toner cartridge pcb out by sliding it and sure enough the number is written on the 8 pin chip as 24C04WP, made by ST
    So will search for it in Stadium Market and have it soldered on the pcb at any mobile phone repair shop where they have hot air soldering station, if it is a SMD type
    Also downloaded the data sheet for it
    thanks again
    with best wishes

    1. ◦Tipu bhai,
      Thank you for the information. Sure, there is something wrong, either from my side or your. This should not happen, when you see 3 leds blink, and toner is not working. And you tried several times trying to reset, but no success – this is puzzling and interesting. As according to my test – this should not happen.

      You are on the right path regarding the chip. You may not get exactly what is printed on it, just look something like 2404.

      If I were at my home I could post another firmware, which checks more. I am interested to see actually what happened to your toner cartridge. But you would also need to provide some more information to determine it, like connecting a serial port and record the information, a little lengthy process, but I am sure it would definitely work, Inshallah.

      Anyway do as you are doing. This is also nice with another possibility for a permanent solution.

      Best of luck.

  48. Rabiul bhai
    i bought the 24C04 eeprom chip and had it soldered from mobile phone repair shop
    Then programmed it with your latest version of firmware
    but the bad news is that it worked for only 1 or 2 minutes then gave red led and printer stopped working !!
    any other ideas?
    with best regards

    1. Tipu bhai,
      Thank you for informing.

      I think it is a hardware (cartridge) issue. The resetter only refreshes (writes a new one) the cartridge firmware with a new serial number, nothing more.

      If it writes wrong, the cartridge will not be detected at all. Not like sometimes it gets detected, sometimes not. You mentioned that it worked for 1 or 2 minutes. Which means the resetter did what it is supposed to do. Hope you understand this.

      Without seeing/testing the cartridge and the chip practically, I think I should not say anything about this.

      Best of luck.

  49. Dear All,,,,

    No Doubt this Blog , is One of the Best R&D Blog atleast relating to Samsung ML series Printer,,,,, I do personally have No Doubt in it…..

    But, a professional business personal, in today’s market i dont have so much of patience and or time to do the R&D. yes i do believe and wish the prescribed circuit is workable and running. But, still time is a big factor….

    So, best idea will be to go for a direct KILL>…… <

    iff u have limited time… u may go for a reset chip for Samsung toner…. for India and also may be for Bangladesh also i dont know,,, will be good solution..

    Link Removed

    U can have a rest chip at small price of Rs. 250/- (INR), including freight, (at least for India), yes my dear Rs. 250/- and it will be a life time investment….

    )Please dont feel that, i am prompting any specific company and or brand ,,,, this is a mear info that i wanna share with all my co-bloggers…..

    Iff I have un-intentionally hurt u ….. please KHOMA KORBEN…..

    Kolkata, India

  50. সবার প্রতি সালাম |
    ভাই আমি মনে করছিলাম সামসন এর এম এল ১৬৬৬ মডেলের প্রিন্টের কিনব. কিন্ত এই টার কাউন্টার চিপ থাকার কারনে অনেক ঝামেলা হয়তে পারে|
    ভাই এমন কমেন্ট করার জন্য দুক্ষিত কিন্ত আমার কোনো উপায় নাই, আমি মনে করি এম এল ২০১০ মডেলে কোনো চিপ নাই, তবে আমি সথিক্জানি না, তবে আমাদের কাছের মার্কেট এ ২০১০ মডেল কিনতে পাব যাচ্ছে একদম নতুন. ভাই আমার প্রশ্ন হলো ২০১০ মডেল এ কি চিপ আছে?
    ২০১০ মডেল রিফিল করা কিন্ত অতীব সহজ আমি যা মনে করি…..
    ২০১০ মডেল এ চিপ আছে কি না জানালে খুব এ ভালো হত..
    ধন্যবাদ |

    এবং ১৬১০ মডেল এ চিপ আছে? এই তাও ও জানালে ভালো হয়

    1. আপনার প্রতিও সালাম।
      আমি নিশ্চিত নই, তবে মনে হচ্ছে ২০১০ আর ১৬১০ রিসেটের প্রয়োজন নেই। নিচের লিংকের ১ম কমেন্টটি দেখুন,

      এই লিংকেও বলা হচ্ছে রিসেটের দরকার নেই,

    2. তবে আমাদের কাছের মার্কেট এ ২০১০ মডেল কিনতে পাব যাচ্ছে একদম নতুন

      যদি বাংলাদেশে হয় এবং ঢাকায় হয় তাহলে আমিও একটা কিনতে চাই।

      আশা করি জানাবেন।

  51. I made this resetter and it is working.

    But I want to know which market has this samsung 2010 and 1610 and where? And what is the price?

  52. Dear Sir
    first of all i would like to Thank you a lot that u made this type of resetting technique open source
    now i give my introduction i am Tarun from IIT-Kanpur(trainee) i would like to you to plz verify that the resistance R5=350 ohm,C3=100nf,C4=1uf are ok na

    1. Hello Tarun,

      Good question indeed. If it is clear, you don’t have to mess around with a new program like DesignSpark 🙂

      Here is a list for you, and others who may want to make this without installing or using DesignSpark:

      Ref Name Value Component
      C1 22pF C
      C2 22pF C
      C3 100nF C
      C4 1uF CP
      REF3 PIC16F73
      R1 1K R
      R2 1K R
      R3 1K R
      R4 47K R
      R5 330 R
      SW1 SW_FSM2JH
      XTAL1 8 MHz XTAL

      Best regards.

  53. sir
    here in the market only 16c73b or 16f72 is available, can u give me the code for this microcontroler i have a jmd programmer n i have burnt the code in 16C73B but none of the led is glowing

    1. Hello Tarun,
      You can program these PICs for many times.

      I don’t understand why it didn’t work with 16c73b, since both of the 16F73 and 16C73 are somewhat similar. You can test this on Proteus, if you have. I don’t have a license for the Proteus, so I can’t test.

      Anyway, here is a firmware for 16C73B, untested. You can try it. If not using Proteus, check your hardware again.!264

      Best regards.

  54. Sir
    i have read from the datasheet of the 16c73b it is of single cycle n all c series pic are for single cycle only
    n my ckt is not working n also i have checked the ckt it is correct
    so can you send me the code so that i can reprogram another pic only if it is possible for u bcoz i know that
    people on net don’t even opensource the .hex file of the ckt but its very great of u that u did that so its a very kind request that u plz provide me with the code i will be highly obliged n will be thankful to u sir
    best regards

    1. Hello Tarun,

      After reading your comment I tested it on gpsim simulator. I found it is working. If you are interested you can download gpsim from the link bellow (download version 0.24.0, not the latest or other one as that will not work) and I give a small description about how to test it:

      * Download gpsim:

      * Install it. Add “C:\Program Files\gpsim\bin” in your system path.

      * Download “” file from the link bellow and keep it in the same folder where you kept “16C73B.hex” file earlier:!264

      * Open command window/terminal and browse to the folder where “” & “16C73B.hex” files are. Enter the following command:

      gpsim.exe -c

      This will launch gpsim, arrange the components as you can see them properly.

      Click on run. You would see Led0 is ON and text on USART window.

      Click on push_button0. You would see Led0 turns OFF and Led1 turns ON, plus few more text on USART.

      Note: You have to ‘Quit’ gpsim and start again to test from the beginning. Clicking ‘stop’ and ‘run’ or ‘reset’ button does not work. It is slightly hard to configure/running gpsim, and there are some bugs too. I have uploaded a video and hope it may help you, here:

      This may help you determine that the firmware is working and perhaps there are errors in your hardware, although I am not saying that exactly. There could be many more possibilities.

      The source needs some clean up. I may then post it later. But if it is not working, then the source or anything else is of no use.

      Take care.

      Best regards.

  55. sir
    i am very thankful that u reply so soon
    but the program isn’t running
    can u plz send me the sourcecode i need to program it for 16f72 which is easily available in the market n in ur code(.hex)
    oscillator is HS it must be XT as there is an external crystal
    n now there is no use of programming in 16c73b bcoz it is only one time programmable n i have programmed it with the code of 16f73 so that ic is gone dumb as it not matches the code of 16f73
    n today ill download proteus
    best regards

    1. Dear Tarun,
      Seen the image. The program is not running, because either you haven’t installed it, or forgot to add gpsim in your system path. Right click on Computer icon on your Desktop, click Properties. Click ‘Advanced system settings’ > Click on ‘Advanced’ tab > Click on ‘Path’ under ‘System variables’ > Click ‘Edit’. Now add gpsim’s bin folder to the end of the line with a semicolon. For example like this:

      C:\Program Files\NVIDIA Corporation\PhysX\Common;C:\GTK\bin;C:\Program Files\gpsim\bin

      See Image-7
      I could not understand the rest of your comment properly. I shall read again with more attention. By the way, I don’t have changed it for PIC-16F72 yet. May be later I shall do. Proteus is not that much essential for this if you can figure out gpsim.

      Take care.

  56. sorry sir as i am first time operating on pic so need some help from u
    but i am expert in using atmega n thats my pet microcontroller

  57. thnx for help
    i simulated it and simulation was sucessful
    but the problem is that now i only have 16f72 n i have to make it with this only
    so can u help me plz sir plz or provide me with the source code
    best regards

    1. is the ic located in the cartridge itself of in the printer or in the resetting circuit.
      will only the short circuiting work without the resetter? pls let me know!

  58. Yes the ic is located in the cartridge itself
    let me tell u in detail:
    The ic 24c04 is a eeprom ie. Electronically erasable programmable read only memory ,that stores how many print the toner has done since it is installed n it also stores the serial no of the toner .
    n i tell u what the ckt present on this website does it ,is that it changes the serial no. of the toner n set the count to 0 so that printer recognizes that the toner installed is new one it is also the one way of doing the job.
    the another way is that
    1. take out the chip of the toner you want to reset ie of ml1666.
    2. watch the chip it has one ic solded on it named 24C04.
    3. what u have to do is to find the seventh(7th) pin of the ic.
    4. the function of this pin is to write protect ie to enable or to disable the writing part.
    5. my objective is to disable the writing part on it ie it can be read only
    6. clearly if ur page count is 341 let it remain 341 irrespective of how many printout u have
    7 now most imp part how to do this is that
    8. first disconnect any connections going to 7th pin
    9. now short the 7th n 8th pin which is actually vcc or vdd.
    10. as this ic has a property that if 7th pin is connected to vcc(8th pin) it cannot perform write operation
    11. so ur counter is fixed n thats what u want

    well thnx for showing interest in my post
    be free to ask me any question regarding above
    best regards

  59. @Tarun
    Have you tried it practically on your printer by shorting pin 7 to pin 8?Does it work?
    If the problem is solved by this method then why are you “sweating” so much to program the 16F72?

  60. yes
    it works but first u have to remove any previous connection to the pin 7 then short pin 7 &8
    i found this trick working on 13th night only bcoz i experimented a lot for two nights then i found this trick
    n i have purchased 16f72 and made the whole ckt n i dont want it to go waste n 16f73 is not availible
    so i was requesting for the code of 16f72
    if u dont believe me plz download the datasheet of the ic24c04 n then search for write protect in the first page u will get all the answers!107

  61. @ Tarun
    If it indeed works, then please accept my heartiest congratulations !!
    At the moment my printer is in the shop because i broke a gear/pinion by pulling a sheet of paper which was jammed inside, so i have to wait until i get it back to test your method.

  62. congrats Tarun, i waited long to get some solution like u r suggested. now i can dare to buy a printer of the discussed model !
    by the way, what if my cartridge counter is totally consumed to 100%, can u dig into the matter with u’r findings.

    thank u again rabiul vai for the initiation o such discussion .and all others to contribute.

    1. Salaam Arafat bhai, and you are most welcome. And thanks to Tarun for sharing good information with us in detail. I appreciate your hard work. I have not tested the method, but it should work.

      When I started to do something with this printer/toner, I also tried to find a software solution like feeding modified firmware etc. But you know as I said earlier in my comment that this made my printer dead. So, I had to do something like this resetter or something like write protect eeprom IC which Tarun said or attach a permanent circuit to the printer.

      I did not go with the write protect eeprom IC method, mainly because this needs to open the toner cartridge – and if the result is negative, my chance to get the warranty gets negative.

      Second reason, by reading some pages on the web, I understand there are two kinds of printer/firmware. One is that, which records the page count on the cartridge. Another, which records both on the cartridge and printer itself. Here was the doubt, that how does the ml-1666 counts. Only cartridge or printer and cartridge. To determine this, one has to go on with printing up to the toner limit, for example 1500+ page – after write protect the IC. Then refill and verify. This too needs lots of testing (any way you like to do, raise the counter to 1500 for test etc. and when you know how to raise, why not reudce/reset to zero?). So, for me the chance was 50/50. If count on cartridge then successful, if cartridge+printer then fail.

      Anyway, if it works then this solution is far better than using this resetter. I would suggest to follow what Tarun said and I may also apply his method when I refill my own cartridge.

      Best wishes and best of luck.

  63. thnx to all my dear friends
    and i tell u without the support of ribuls sir n ur questions it wouldn’t be possible for me to research on this n i suggest that do all the experiments on ur toner when ur toner has reached 1450 prints n in that case u dont have to lose any thing but u can gain a lot by experimenting it

    1. Thank you too Tarun. Your suggestion is right, let’s wait for approximately 1450 on any of our cartridge, then write protect the IC to check. I don’t print much, say 20 pages in 2 months. Hope someone prints enough and will kindly share the experience.

      Take care.

      1. I said ”’based on this? —”’ not???

        That website also tells to short/solder ic for write protect, and it is also samsung laser printer. There is similarity necessary to mention to any child.

  64. @maxon
    yes you got it right i was exactly talking about the thing mentioned in the website but its for clp300 n u can try this same for 24c04 and iam quiet impressed by this site bcoz they provided not only hardware approach but also microprogramed approach
    good work maxon

    n about two toner its not compulsory u can do it with one only
    best wishes

  65. code
    Filename: reset

    #This shell script resets the EEPROM Toner cartidge chip of SAMSUNG CLP-300[N] Printers!
    #Don’t do something wrong or you might destroy your system!

    bus=$1 #I2CBUS
    chip=$2 #CHIP-ADDRESS

    #i2c_get Function, Reads from i2c bus
    #arg1: Address
    printf “%d” `i2cget -y $bus $chip $1 b`
    sleep 0.1

    #i2c_set Function, Writes to i2c bus
    #arg1: Address
    #arg2: Value
    i2cset -y $bus $chip $1 $2 b
    sleep 0.1

    #Check for root
    if [ `whoami` != “root” ]; then
    echo “You have to be root to access devices!”

    #Check for arguments
    if [ $# != 2 ]; then
    echo “Usage: sudo sh reset-clp300-i2c I2CBUS CHIP-ADDRESS”
    echo “Use i2cdetect and i2cdump to determine the right I2CBUS and CHIP-ADDRESS”

    #Print welcome text and dump current data
    echo “Using I2C Bus $bus and Chip-Address $chip to reset CLP300 Toner Cartidge Chip…”
    echo “Current EEPROM Memory Dump:”
    i2cdump -y $bus $chip b

    #Begin to write
    echo “Beginning to write data…”

    #Write block 0x00 to 0x7F
    for i in `seq 0x00 0x7F`; do i2c_set $i 0xFF; done

    #Write block 0xC0 to 0xFF
    for i in `seq 0xC0 0xC3`; do i2c_set $i 0x00; done
    for i in `seq 0xC4 0xC7`; do i2c_set $i 0xFF; done
    for i in `seq 0xC8 0xC9`; do i2c_set $i 0x00; done
    for i in `seq 0xCA 0xCB`; do i2c_set $i 0xA5; done
    for i in `seq 0xCC 0xCF`; do i2c_set $i 0xFF; done
    for i in `seq 0xD0 0xE3`; do i2c_set $i 0x00; done
    for i in `seq 0xE4 0xFF`; do i2c_set $i 0xFF; done

    #Increase the last digit of the crum number by one
    last_crum_digit=`i2c_get 0xBF`
    if [ $last_crum_digit -ge 48 -a $last_crum_digit -le 57 ]; then
    #Increase the digit
    if [ $last_crum_digit -eq 57 ]; then
    last_crum_digit=`expr $last_crum_digit + 1`
    #Write back
    echo “Changing last CRUM digit to: $last_crum_digit”
    i2c_set 0xBF $last_crum_digit
    echo “ERROR: Last CRUM digit could not be read!”

    #Dump new data
    echo “New EEPROM Memory Dump:”
    i2cdump -y $bus $chip b

    echo “Resetting Chip done. Have a nice day! :)”
    Pretty short and simple, but works fine on all 4 types of toner chips.
    but to make it working for 24c04 little bit changes are required
    dear frnds i suggest u to look through this code n think how to modify it for ur 24c04

  66. @tarun
    Thanx a lot man!!! It would be really a trouble to collect the 2nd cartridge. Who would give you a cartridge for free anyway? So, seems ml-1666 doesn’t keep track about the toner in the printer memory.

    I have a question here, how do you determine that ml-1666 does not write about the cartridge in printer memory? Do you determine this as it prints ok after shorting write protect pin and the page count on cartridge does not increase?

  67. dear maxon
    i want to tell u that
    plz do ur all experiments when u have printed ~1450 pages
    n sorry dear i dont remember about printing but i know that shorting has no relation with printing n i guess ur going to try it
    well best ov luck

  68. Hi Rabiuls,
    Thanks for putting up this page as printer cartridges are very expensive, I dont have PIC micros but I will try using AVRs as i have been using them for a while. Will post the code for a chip resetter if I am able to compete it!!1

    Thanks again

  69. Assalamualikum Rabiul bhai,
    Toner resetter chittagong e kon jaigai pawa jabe ektu janaben….??? price ta koto hbe tao janaben…plzzzzzzz

  70. i suffered mental agony after the technician told that this ml1666 catridge cannot be refilled again and a new catridge is to be purchased. (he changed the chip in the catridge too)

    the ml640 firmware made my printer dead. as the warranty exists still the technician changed the pcb of the printer.

    i soldering 7 and 8 pins of the catridge chip did wonder.

    my printer started printing again.

    thanks alot for the discussion especially to rabiuls sab

    bolloju baba

  71. Robiul bhai, amar PIC niye temon ekta dharona nai. ARDUINO niye tuktak kaj kori. uporer ckt ta jodi apnar design hoy and PIC ta jodi apni program kore thaken amake ki kindly bolte parben 24c04 (4KB I2C EEPROM) er kon address e ki ki likha lage? r CRUM ki jekono random number dile hoy naki kono combination ache? Combination thekle pattern tao boilen.

    Amar printer ML-1866 er toner MLT-D1043S. ekhon arekta question hochche [apni jodi jene thaken] ML 1866 ki sudhu toner ei count kore naki toner er CRUM nijer memory te store korar por separate page count rakhe?

    amar kache arduino thakar karone ami chachchilam abar PIC ke program korar jhamela ta erate. ARDUINO te I2C use korar jono library royeche jeta kina pricess ta aro sohoj kore dito. So, waiting for your reply.

  72. rabiul’bhai,
    i have a samsung ml1866 black laser printer which runs on the toner MLT-D1043S, which is also found in Samsung ML-1666, ML-1866, SCX-3201, SCX-3218. i hope this resetting trick will work out on ML1866 as well.
    I am quite novice to this all circuitry tasks,and somehow read all the communications you made with different persons above here, in the end im but helpless, and ask you “Can you send this complete resetting circuit to India?” Although I staying just under 1000km (maybe) from you, in Assam,still its in India.Is there any medium ? Ebay or anything similar??
    Please think over it.

    1. Hello Sadiq bhai,
      Thank you for your comment. Actually I am not involved in this resetter anymore. And I don’t know how to send this to India, as there is possibly customs clearance matters. Scroll up and take a look at the comment mentioning refillghar of India who sells the replace chip and the price is RS. 150/=, which is reasonable. I do not know whether the company is legitimate or not, so please verify by yourself.
      Personally I have visited several times in India years before. Close to your area too. I gratefully remember the hospitality shown to me by the people of your area. Thanks again.

      Best regards.

  73. Hi, can you provide the hex file for AVR microcontroller? if not, please provide the source code files for the PIC chip so that i can convert it for the AVR. email: saadbillah AT gmail DOT com

  74. thnx rabiul bhai amar onek upokar hoyese ame toire korte pereche……..abong pls apne aktu bole je pic to clon kebhabe use korte hoye abong toner chip write kibhabe hoye plsssssssssss 01938229626

  75. jemon ml 1666 ar program out put korar jonno gnd vcc data clk 4ta port ache but pic to clone kibhabe clone o write kore hoye pls janan

  76. সালাম নাদিম ভাই,
    আপনাকেও অনেক ধন্যবাদ ও শুভেচ্ছা কমেন্টের জন্য এবং সফলভাবে এটা বানানোর জন্য।

    কিছু PIC Microcontroller আছে যা প্রোগ্রাম করা হয়েছে কোন Copy Protection ছাড়া। যেমন ধরুন এই Resetter এর প্রোগ্রামটাই, এটা আপনি কপি করতে পারবেন। কিন্তু অধিকাংশই Copy Protected – অর্থাৎ আপনি কপি করতে পারবেন না। যদিও হয়তো শুনবেন Acid দিয়ে পুড়িয়ে এবং আরো অনেক কারিগরী করে Copy করা সম্ভব, তবে এদেশে আমাদের মতো হবিস্টদের জন্য Practically সম্ভব নয়। কারন প্রয়োজনীয় যন্ত্রপাতি এবং জ্ঞানের অভাব। এই লাইনে চেষ্টা না করাই ভালো, অহেতুক সময় নষ্ট। বরং ভালোভাবে এই Microcontroller Programming আর Electronics শিখলে আপনি প্রায় যে কোন কিছুর নকল নিজেই করতে পারবেন। Hardware এর ব্যাপারটা বুঝতে পারলে, প্রোগ্রাম আপনিই লিখবেন। China কে দেখুন, তারা এই কাজটিই করছে। যাই হোক, আবারো ধন্যবাদ।

  77. Hello Rabiul’bhai,sorry to disturb you again, i posted a request to you on December 12, 2011. and as suggested by you, ordered two ML1666 chips at but what to say, they cheated.i sent a bank deposit,which they never acknowledged,even after repeated email queries. I am back now from where i started.what do you suggest to me now.i will maybe show your circuit plan to a freind of mine who knows something about them. It would have been much better if you could somehow send those things somehow to India.-Thanks,waiting for your comment.

    1. Dear Sadiq bhai,
      Very sorry to hear that. I may remove their link from here, else what can I do? If you have any suggestion please let me know. There are lots of fraud online sellers or strange trading. One should be very careful.

      However, it is good to know that one of your friends is involved in this. In fact everything is given here. He may start by programming the chip and assembling it on a veroboard/stripboard. And let’s wait and see where does he get stuck. Only then we can discuss about that particular problem.

      Then, if you have any relative or friend here in Bangladesh, he may supply me the required parts/components and I shall make one resetter for you. Later you can collect it from him. You don’t have to pay me anything.

      Next, I don’t know the charge/fee by DHL/FedEx etc courier service, to send this to you. If you arrange/pay that part, then I can send it by courier.

      Right now nothing more is coming in my head. If you have something, let me know. Take care.

      Best regards.

  78. hello people

    is one good project, but you need first know about s3cc921,, this ic use chips ml d-104 (ml1660-1665-1865 etc)
    no need change serial only need change progres bar A5 A5 A5 A5 change a FF FF FF FF and write counter zone in 0

    best regards

  79. Thanks for your information, I have definitely acquired something new. I did notice that your web site was loading a bit slow which can really effect how Google decides to promote your articles and pages. Keep up the great work! Time to get back to these wonderful beaches in Brazil!

  80. Hi Rabiul, thanks for writing this software, it looks like when I can get it going it’s going to do just what I need! I’ve spent several days trying this with various PICs without success, so I bought a 16F73 but it still doesn’t work. I’ve connected the debug pin to a terminal and get the following:

    NumA Test:8
    What does the error “8” mean?

    On the oscilloscope I can see two bytes being outputted from SDA and SCL. As far as I can see, the EEPROM is not giving ACK back to the PIC. Here’s the oscilloscope output:

    I’d really appreciate any help you can give me! Thank you! Steve

    1. I think it is unable to communicate with the eeprom. Even if you don’t connect the eeprom, you should get the

      NumA Test:8

      I would request you to try this without eeprom. If you see the same result, check eeprom connection.

      Also check the pull-up resistors on pin 14 and 15 that they are correctly connected to VDD.

      Best regards.

  81. Thanks for replying :). I get the same thing with or without the eeprom connected. To make sure the connections are good, I’ve taken the toner cartridge apart, removed the pcb and soldered onto the contacts.

    The pull-ups on pins 14 and 15 are there and they’re 1K. The oscilloscope shows that the lines are being pulled up okay.

    When the pcb is in the toner cartridge, the printer can read how many pages it has printed, which suggests to me that the eeprom isn’t broken – would you agree?

    1. Really I don’t have any idea. And it’s been a while since I was last looked at the project. So, I don’t remember everything clearly. I made many with the same method. Don’t know why your one is not working,

      At this point, one should try another eeprom for testing. But I understand it is not practical in this case, as where would you get another toner eeprom. Do you live in Bangladesh?

      By the way, I made another firmware for this, which I did not upload, since the one is uploaded is working. But if you want that firmware, let me know, I shall mail it to you (if I can find it, still didn’t search).

      Take care and best regards.

      1. I know what you mean about forgetting how old projects work! I’m in the UK I’m afraid, but thanks for offering – I’ve only got the one toner cartridge here. I’ve ordered some blank 24C04s to see if they can be recognised by the PIC.

        It would be great if you could send me the other firmware, thank you. I’m on hello (at) stevesmith [dot] org. Did you write it in assembly, C or something else?
        Thanks 🙂

      2. Sent you email.

        This was very good in your comment: 🙂

        “I know what you mean about forgetting how old projects work!”

        – Take care and best of luck.

    1. I do not think, this can be solved by software. Seems like a hardware problem – any roller might have damaged. It is better to take it to the Service Center. Hope, still it is covered by warranty, if not, no problem. They may charge you a minor fee for fixing. They are cooperative.

  82. Hi,
    I’m from Dhaka. The work you’ve done with the resetter is really impressive. I am planning to buy a cheap printer and and after seeing your project, i would definitely go for a MLT-D1043S cartridge based printer.
    However I never used PIC and I don’t have any PIC programmer. I have worked with AVR, and i was thinking if i could convert this program for ATmega controllers. It’d be great if you could share the code, or give me some pointers to learn about eeprom reprogramming.
    Also, does the shorting the write enable pin of the chip actually works?

    1. Hello Shafeey,
      Please check your mail for the source. Personally I did not test shorting the write enable pin. So, can’t say about this. But since someone is saying that it worked, I think it may work. Try it by yourself to be confirmed, and if possible inform the result, so that it may help others.

      Best regards.

      1. Samsung ML 1666 is out of market.
        And, Samsung has got it’s own chip(microcontroller) for Samsung ML 2165 which requires a custom made software to flash and I did not find any free version of it.

  83. Hello Rakib,
    Thank you for posting. May be I shall see the video later Inshallah. Now doing some other “work” [“what can I say here? Because my works are useless to the society and my family too. Even then I do these, because I love these. Allah made me this way. May Allah forgive.” ].

    Well, let’s come to the point, no more useless talk!! If you want to print in normal way, that means on paper as usual, then you may go for it. In fact, Samsung printer (experience by my ML-1666) is not that much good.

    But if you want to print to make pcb (toner transfer method), then I think buying a brother laser will not be good. Google by yourself, and see that people have problem with brother printer for toner transfer.

    It is actually for the ink – the powder, made of plastic resin. Different manufacturer uses different type of ink. For toner transfer work, I think samsung is the best (may be I am wrong, as I haven’t tested other printers to compare the quality). I am satisfied with the pcb. But, samsung – as a normal printer, no! This is my view. This could be wrong. Ask some real experts.

    Ok brother, take care and best of luck.

    1. Thanks, brother for the reply.
      I guess you are busy with your hobby electronics. Nice to hear that. Well, I am not sure, I will make PCB or not because I might focus on job(telecom/any electronic company) or higher study, whatever Almighty Allah wishes.
      And this is my last semester, therefore, looking for Internships.
      My budget is low, samsung is quite expensive.
      Brother is around 4500/=, whereas, samsung is samsung express M-2020 @ 5500/= and samsung ML-2165 @ 5000/=
      Which one you suggest as I might print PCB (very rare) ?
      On the other hand, I found the firmware for samsung ML-2165 in a site, but samsung M-2020 is a new one so there is no available firmware for it.
      Pray for me!
      Allah Hafez

      1. Assalamualaikum brother,

        Yes, I am little bit busy with some projects :).

        After reading your mail, I think you do not want to make pcb regularly, 1 or 2 pcb or something like that per year. In that case, I would suggest, not to think about pcb totally. Remove this from your brain. You may make pcb by commercial pcb maker. I know, your requirement is one or two pcb, but commercial pcb makers would not accept to make such a low quantity. Well brother, I have a solution. When you need to make pcb, contact me by mail or here etc. I shall introduce you to someone who would do that low quantity for me. You tell him that you are my brother, and he will make it. Price is also reasonable. But, remember, you have to make order for at least 5 pcs. For example, a pcb with good quality (not like the ordinary copper clad board) – say… size = 3″x3″, five pieces of boards, would be sent to you by courier. And the cost will be approximately 400 taka. Not much, I think. If you are living in Dhaka, then you may go to him and get your pcb directly. You save the courier charge. And, after several orders, if your relationship with him grows good, you may even get a single pcb made by him. No, need to toner transfer, he will do the drilling also.

        So, forget about toner transfer. Search the best printer with reasonable price, and which can be refilled. If it has locking mechanism like Samsung-ml-1666, you read the firmware, store it on your computer, change what is necessary with the right hex editor. Then write your modified firmware to the toner. Now it has become another toner – refill and use…., :).

        Best of luck. Khoda Hafez.

  84. Wa alaykumu as-salam brother,
    Hope you are fine! Thanks for the reply and yes, it would be a great help to get a professional quality PCB at cheap rate. I will knock as soon as my schematic is ready.
    By the way, samsung ML-2165 laser is around 5200/= and samsung xpress M2020 laser is around 5500/=, both of these has a starter cartridge(toner), the shop keepers are saying that the starter cartridge(toner) is not refillable but a replaced toner will be refillable which costs 2600/=.
    A big headache for me, 5500+2600=oops, lot of money
    Was you able to refill with the starter cartridge?
    The shop keepers was also saying Canon is good for refill, which is also more than 7000/=

    1. Hello brother,
      The shopkeeper is right. I tried with 2 toners, one was mine, and another was my cousin’s. It did not work. Most of the time it printed the whole page black, like carbon paper. Sometimes, light or vague letters, with black marks all over the page. Totally unusable.

      Then purchased two Chinese compatible cartridges (two different models) at the price, close to what your shopkeeper said. Forgot their brand name. But both worked well (for PCB too).

      I am unable to suggest what would be the best for you, since I have no practical knowledge. You have better idea, as you have made some inquiry. Buy any one, by the name of Allah. And let’s expect good result.

      But why are you calculating for the replacement cartridge right now? I think the initial/testing cartridge will run for quite long (sure depends on the printing amount). Then you may look for a replacement in future when it is empty. Don’t keep unnecessary burden or pressure on your brain (like I did, and the result is zero – in fact “minus”. Not a single taka is saved, but spent more than usual, for testing this and that).

      That’s all for now. Take care and Khoda Hafez.

      Best regards.

    1. Assalamualaikum brother,
      I am not sure about the error/problem. I think you can check whether the driver (original one that came with the box) is installed correctly. You can also try it on any other computer, to make sure whether printer, or the computer is making error. Thank you.

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